RAWR XD: Emo’s Everlasting InfluencE

Emo, whose participants are called emo kids or emos, is a subculture that began in the United States in the 1990s. Based around emo music, the subculture formed in the genre's mid-1990s San Diego scene, where participants were derisively called "Spock rock" due to their distinctive straight, black haircuts. The subculture entered mainstream consciousness in the 2000s, being associated with social networks like Myspace, Buzznet, and hi5. During this time of popularity, it faced backlash, including violent attacks on emo teens in Mexico and Iraq, as well as proposed Russian laws targeting the subculture due to perceptions that it promoted anti-social behavior, depression, and suicide. By 2009, mainstream attention had largely declined, with the subculture continuing underground on websites like Tumblr and through emo revival groups.

Fashion

Clothing

During the 1990s, emo fashion was clean-cut and leaned towards geek chic, featuring thick-rimmed glasses, button-down shirts, t-shirts, sweater vests, tight jeans, Converse shoes, and cardigans.

By the mid-to-late 2000s, emo fashion had evolved into skinny jeans, tight band t-shirts, studded belts, Converse sneakers, Vans, and black wristbands. Thick, horn-rimmed glasses remained popular, while eyeliner and black fingernails became common.

Hair and Body Modifications

The earliest emo hairstyle was the "Spock rock" haircut—straight, black-dyed hair with blunt bangs. By the 2000s, this had developed into the iconic long, side-swept bangs covering one eye, often flat-ironed and uncombed. Some emos opted for a variation called the "shotgun blast" haircut, featuring spiked hair in the back.

Other emo hairstyles included the A-line bob, swoop, and skullet, often with layers, messy textures, and dyed sections in neon colors or patterns like raccoon stripes. Many emos cut their hair with razor blades for an intentionally jagged look. Snakebite lip piercings and stretched lobe piercings were also popular.

History

Origins (Mid-1980s to Mid-1990s)

Emo music emerged in the mid-1980s within Washington, D.C.’s hardcore punk scene. Bands like Rites of Spring, Embrace, and Dag Nasty pioneered a more emotionally driven sound, later dubbed "emocore." Though many musicians rejected the label, it stuck. The Washington, D.C. emo scene was short-lived, and by 1986, most of its defining bands had disbanded.

The transition from emo as a genre to emo as a subculture began in the mid-1990s in San Diego, where bands like Heroin, Antioch Arrow, and Swing Kids created a distinct aesthetic. Participants were called "Spock rockers" due to their haircuts. Swing Kids' vocalist Justin Pearson’s look—straight bangs with spiked-back hair—became a precursor to the later "shotgun blast" style.

The 1998 release of Refused's "New Noise" music video influenced emo aesthetics, as the band adopted long, swooped bangs, black clothing, and nail polish. By 2002, emo was characterized by an introverted, artistic image, with emos frequenting coffee shops, keeping diaries, and favoring indie films over Hollywood blockbusters.

The Rise of Fashioncore (Late 1990s–Early 2000s)

The band Eighteen Visions played a pivotal role in shaping the fashion-forward style of emo, known as "fashioncore." Rejecting the hyper-masculine image of hardcore, they introduced elements of glam, including skinny jeans, straightened hair, black clothing, and eyeliner. This style spread within metalcore and hardcore scenes, influencing bands like Avenged Sevenfold and Bleeding Through.

As emo gained mainstream attention, a divide emerged between "scene" and "traditional" emo aesthetics. Scene fashion, which evolved from fashioncore, was flashier and more theatrical, incorporating bright colors, teased hair, and animal prints.

The Great Emo-Punk War of 2008

By the mid-2000s, emo had become a global phenomenon, but it faced significant backlash. In Mexico, violent anti-emo attacks erupted in 2008, with punks and metalheads targeting emo teens in cities like Mexico City, Querétaro, and Tijuana. Dubbed "The Mexican Emo Wars" by NPR, these conflicts were fueled by stereotypes that emos were overly emotional and weak.

Beyond Mexico, emo faced repression in Russia, where lawmakers sought to ban emo attire in schools, viewing it as a dangerous trend promoting depression and suicide. In Iraq, reports surfaced of Shia militias targeting and killing emo youth in 2012.

Decline and Revival (2010s–Present)

By 2009, emo had largely faded from mainstream pop culture. The subculture continued on Tumblr, where it blended with aesthetics like soft grunge. Emo revival bands like Modern Baseball, Tigers Jaw, and The Front Bottoms gained traction, and emos adopted a more muted style, often incorporating flannel, thick-rimmed glasses, and vintage band tees.

In the late 2010s, movements like "#20ninescene" (2019) and "The Rawring 20s" (2020s) attempted to revive emo and scene culture. Websites like SpaceHey and FriendProject, inspired by early Myspace, gained popularity among nostalgic millennials and Gen Z. Social media influencers on Instagram and TikTok embraced scene fashion, leading to a resurgence of elements like teased hair and colorful makeup.

Conclusion

Emo has undergone multiple transformations, from its underground beginnings to mainstream explosion and eventual retreat back into niche communities. Whether through 2000s nostalgia, social media, or evolving subcultures like e-girls and e-boys, emo’s legacy continues to influence youth culture today.